Treble booster template

Blackstufflabs has made a PCB template that will fit almost all treble boosters. It uses a generic circuit diagram, with room for all the possible components. You just leave out the ones that are not necessary in a particular version. The circuit looks like this:

The table below explains the individual components and the values we will use.

C Component Ge Si
Q1 Transistor OC140 BC549C
D1 Polarity safety diode 1N4001 1N4001
R1 Power decoupling resistor wire 100
R2 Input pull-down resistor 1Meg 120k
R3 Resistor divider Rb1 470k 100k
R4 Junction resistor wire 1k
R5 Resistor divider Rb2 100k trim 22k
R6 Emitter resistor 3k9 2k4
R7 Collector resistor (output impedance) 10k pot 6k8
R8 Output resistor wire wire
R9 Output level control resistor none 47k
C1 Large power decoupling capacitor 100uF 47uF
C2 Small power decoupling capacitor none none
C3 Input AC coupling capacitor 5nF 10nF
C4 Input high frequency filter capacitor none none
C5 Base-Emitter bypass capacitor none 1nF
C6 Emitter resistor bypass capacitor 47uF 47uF
C7 Output AC coupling capacitor 10nF 47nF
C8 Output high frequnecy filter capacitor none 4n7F

The Germanium components are taken from the Blackstufflabs PDF table for the Dallas Rangemaster. The components are the same as the original Dallas Rangemaster, as described in the Electrosmash article. The only difference is an NPN transistor to accomodate for the more practical negative ground circuit. The same circuit is used in the Pedalparts kit. R5 is a trim pot, making it possible to set the Q-point of the circuit at its sweet spot of 7.0V - making up for particular values of hFE. R7 is a pot that is used as a gain control, the original “boost” dial of the Rangemaster.

The Silicium components are taken from the same Blackstufflabs PDF and are the same as the one found in the Grand Poohbah at Fryer guitars and the one used in the Pedalparts kit, so pretty confident this is “the real one”.

Fryer also states the usage of R4 and R9 in the circuit:

  • R4 will smooth out the upper mid “focus” of the booster sound, leaving R4 out gives a more harder, direct Rangemaster type sound;
  • R9 can be changed into an output level pot.